Ingredients

Kosher salt

1 lb. short curly pasta shape, like cavatappi or campanelle

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

4 oz. pancetta (you can sub bacon or salami), diced small (if you prefer a vegetarian pasta, omit and replace with 8 oz sliced cremini mushrooms)

1 c. red onion, chopped

1 c. fennel, chopped

1 (14-oz.) can crushed tomatoes

1 Pinch crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

1 (15-oz.) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 c. Parmesan, freshly grated, or more to taste

1/4 c. fresh parsley, chopped

2 tbsp. fresh sage, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp. lemon zest

Preparation

Step 1Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons salt. Cook the pasta until not quite al dente, a few minutes before the package instructs. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Set aside.Step 2In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil until it shimmers. Add the pancetta and cook until crisp, stirring frequently. Remove the pancetta from the pan, leaving the oil and fat behind, and set aside. (If using mushrooms, sauté until browned and crispy and then set aside, and add an additional tablespoon of oil in the next step.)Step 3Add the rest of the oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the onion and fennel, and cook until soft and lightly golden on the edges, about 5 minutes.Step 4Add the chickpeas and red pepper flakes, if using, and toss to combine, cooking until the chickpeas take on a little bit of color, about 2 minutes.Step 5Add the tomatoes and cook for about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.Step 6Mix in the pasta, pancetta, and ½ cup of pasta water to the chickpea sauce. Cook, adding more pasta water if the mixture looks dry, until the pasta is al dente.Step 7Add the Parmesan, parsley, sage, and lemon zest and toss again. Serve, garnished with more Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.

 The sauce isn’t so much a tomato sauce as it is a vegetable sauce that has some tomatoes. Any brand of canned tomatoes is fine, but we recommend in this case to seek out canned tomato products from Italy, preferably with the DOP label on them; you’ll notice the difference, especially in a dish like this. If you cannot find crushed tomatoes, buy whole peeled tomatoes in juice, and give them a quick hand-squeeze or use an immersion blender.